Unfortunately you are past the point where you could have installed a stud in that corner as a nailer. What you are saying is that you have unsupported drywall butting into the corner now. You certainly can try a longer screw, but be careful not to bend the drywall as the screw tightens The most likely culprit is the manner in which your drywall was installed. For the seam between drywall panels to disappear after painting, that joint between drywall panels must be covered with..
Drywall should have never benn installed without a stud at the seams. Not all seams are studded or backed up, and they do not need to be. A typical installation uses 4x8 sheets, and only the 4 foot edges are on studs . A joint is created when two pieces of drywall are placed next to each other and attached with drywall tape and compound He had a friend come in to help him with the drywall. Not all the drywall was replaced, only the drywall behind the tub tile. The drywall was green board type. There are at least two problems I saw immediately upon entering the bathroom: 1. The drywall joints were not flush with each other. Even where two of the new pieces of drywall meet it's super difficult to get the drywall screw into the joists. It starts off great and easy and then about 1/2 away from being countersunk, it squeals and is super hard to push in the rest of the way. We're using those drywall setter bits and we've literally gone through 5 just putting up 2 boards of drywall (maybe 18 x 36, not very big boards)
Avoid sanding seams where the paper tape is visible. After you've finished sanding, spread a coat of PVA primer on the wall and let it dry. Polyvinyl acetate is a primer-sealer that helps make the.. use backer board.... it is a taperedd panel made for drywall seams. This allows the seams to be pulled in so no bump is visible after compounding. The best way is to never place butt seams over a stud anyway. And with this you have full bay spacing for easy insulation installation If you are using 12 foot long sheets of drywall, one sheet will not cover the distance from wall to wall. The first sheet should be hung flush with the ceiling starting from the left hand side of the wall. Depending on how the studs are laid-out, it will stop about 16-24 inches, from the right hand side of the wall Whenever possible, hang full sheets of drywall to avoid labor-intensive seams that may show later. The variables of 2 feet make it naturally end exactly in the center of a stud. When you must cut a..
Putting up drywall with no stud behind it can be tricky, but it is not that difficult to use proper technique. With a little effort and patience, you can have it up in an instant. To secure drywall without studs, you will need some drywall clips, screws, a screwdriver, and drywall If the drywall were hung vertically and a seam placed on a bowed out stud, the seam would be magnified because of the bump in the wall. Easier to finish - A horizontal seam 48 inches or 54 inches off the floor is easier to finish uniformly, especially when compared to a vertical seam, which requires reaching up high and bending down low to. This can happen if there were not enough screws used to secure the drywall when it was installed. It can also happen if it has not been fastened to a stud. When installing drywall, the screws should be fastened a minimum of 12 inches apart to make sure it is properly secured. Drywall panels too close togethe Most of the major paint manufacturers, like Benjamin Moore, Sherwin Williams, Porter, Glidden, etc., offer these special drywall finishing paints. As you have found, anyone can nail drywall up to the studs, but it is a real art to finish it properly. The first step in finishing the drywall is the taping of the joints
Drywall comes in three basic thicknesses: 5/8 inch is heaviest and the most soundproof; 3/8 inch is best to cover existing walls; 1/4 inch is the choice for curved walls and arches. When hanging drywall, the ultimate goal is to create the fewest number of seams possible. This means working with the largest drywall panels and pieces you can. Use a utility knife to score the seam between moldings and drywall. The seam is typically filled with paint, caulk, or some combination of adhesive. If you want to reuse the molding, score the drywall edge of the seams to help fracture the wall where the molding and drywall surface will split. When the drywall breaks on a stud, make another. Fix bulging drywall seams by using a stud finder to identify loose, missing, or over-driven drywall screws. Cut into the wall with a utility knife, remove the problem screws, and replace them with new ones. Finish by patching the wall with joint compound, priming it, then painting it Keep in mind that all pieces of drywall should begin and end on a stud. You should never have a piece of drywall overhanging a stud, or two pieces of drywall meeting in the open spaces between studs. If your stud walls were properly constructed on 16 centers, you should have very few problems with this Does Drywall Have to End on a Stud. Yes, drywall does have to end on a stud. You need to have the left and right sides of drywall halfway over a stud. A stud is 1 1/2″ thick, so the drywall should cover 3/4″ of that so that the next piece of drywall also has 3/4″ to attach to
How to Fix Uneven Drywall. Whether the drywall on your wall got wet and buckled, you have removed wallpaper, or the drywall simply wasn't installed properly, ridges, valleys, visible seams and. If you're constructing the bathroom from scratch, it's easy to put a stud at the edge of the tiled area where the seam occurs. That allows you to anchor the edges of the cement board and the drywall. If you're remodeling, though, and you're working with existing framing, you may have to add a 2x4 at the seam There are a number of reasons drywall seams (joints) may be visible. The one that is most likely is that the finisher did a poor quality job, not unusual when a finisher is working by the square foot, since the faster it's finished the more money. The back wall will be full 1/2 kerdi board...but the 2 side walls only 32inches out from back wall...then regular drywall. How exactly should I transition from the kerdi to the drywall? Im not sure if the seam between the 2 materials should be exactly at the 32inches mark...or if either material should go beyond that mark
This is the kind of thing we covered in the article Taping Drywall Seams (Jul/2017). But even experienced tapers run into problems. The failures I see when I am called in to consult are often climate related. When drywall seams are taped, the air, surface, and compound temperature should be at least 55°F, with 65°F to 70°F being ideal Reattach the drywall to the wall stud using a drywall screw. Drive the drywall screw into the wall about 1 to 2 inches above the popped nail head. Sink the screw head just below the drywall's surface. Hammer the popped nail head back into the wall, being careful not to damage more drywall with the hammer Further, I can also pin point the nails that attach the drywall to the wall studs. So, if I stand in front of the family room wall, I can see parallel streaks of light black outlines about 2 wide. 1) A V groove type joint might have a V deeper than the drywall thickness. But this is not the case for the ones I looked at. 2) Attachment of abutting drywall ends to the 1 ½edges of 2x joists or studs along the parallel direction is not good in any case (screws too close to edge, etc)
If the studs don't line up exactly with the edges of the sheet, or there is not enough stud to attach the sheet using screws, use some mobile home drywall adhesive instead. Continue working around each room until the drywall installation is complete. To smooth the drywall surface for painting the joints and fasteners need to be concealed . sheets aren't long enough, try a specialty drywall supplier, where you'll find 14-ft. and, perhaps, 16-ft. sheets. If you can't get sheets that are as long as the room, or if there's no way to wrestle long sheets into the room, you can make it a lot easier to finish butt joints by creating a recess at each joint (Fig. C) When the walls are 9 ft. high or less, attaching the drywall horizontally can reduce the lineal footage of seams by as much as 25% over vertical attachment. When combined with the longest sheets possible, butt seams are minimized, and those that do appear land between studs where they can be back-blocked to make them easier to finish
Bulging drywall seams usually occur because of poor joint compound application, drywall screws not properly driven into studs, or because a house has settled in the last few years and the seams are pressing against each other with excess force. As long as the drywall is still secured to the studs behind the seams, isn't crushed or crumbling. If you have to cut a sheet short to hit a stud, measure carefully to the center of the stud. You need enough of both sheets on the stud to get a screw on both sides of the centerline, which is real tough unless you get the seam good and centered Over the past few months I have noticed approx. 10 nail pops in the drywall. What is the proper way to repair this? They are caused by the studs behind the drywall shrinking. This leaves more nail (or screw) exposed and if you push on the drywall, and it moves back against the stud, it will force the head out through the joint compound This will simplify the attachment of the drywall panels to the framing. (Make sure any insulating work and vapor barrier installation are complete before you begin hanging drywall panels.) While amateurs often install drywall panels vertically, so that the long seams align along a stud, this is not the usual professional method These cracks usually run either horizontal or vertical at the drywall seams. Homes with vaulted ceilings may develop these cracks in the higher areas as well. Additionally, drywall cracks are often found where two pieces of drywall are butted together. This occurs because there is a joint, which gets drywall taped and then layered with two or.
Loosening drywall is another reason bulges appear. Loosening means the material is pulling away from the studs, which will cause bulges or blisters in the drywall. Additional blistering often becomes evident along the seams where two pieces of drywall meet, and where the tape and compound are present
Unsightly drywall bulges are usually a result of water damage or the drywall loosening from the studs. You can fix a bulge two ways: Draw the drywall back to the studs, or cut out the bulge and replace that section of drywall. Use either method to repair a bulge on a wall or ceiling To install drywall, start by removing all of the old drywall, nails, screws, and anything else that will prevent the new drywall sheets from laying flat against the studs. Next, seal any cracks or gaps that you see with triple-expanding foam and mark the location of all studs using a stud finder Sometimes when a long seam is on a stud, that doesn't quite look right, it stands out and will be noticed by all. Seams are easier to hide when mudding if the drywall is staggered. If you have the choice of mudding an 8' long vertical seam or a couple staggered 4' seams, go for the 4' ones . I'm not sure what the issue is exactly. This happens almost every time there's an outlet as the outlets typically are typically nailed to studs for new work. Just mud as close to them as you can get without getting mud in the boxes Do drywall seams have to be on a stud? Keep in mind that all pieces of drywall should begin and end on a stud. You should never have a piece of drywall overhanging a stud, or two pieces of drywall meeting in the open spaces between studs. If your stud walls were properly constructed on 16″ centers, you should have very few problems with this
Hanging drywall Horizontally vs. Vertically is a questioned often asked. I have actually seen both installations. Hanging drywall horizontally does place seams at a more convenient height for finishing, resulting in better work, but that's only pa.. 1) Where the studs are - both cement board and drywall require solid backing at the joint. 2) Have cement board behind the wet area. 3) Have the joint a few inches to the shower side of the tile edge so you have room to mud a smooth transition on the drywall from the mesh tape Air seal drywall to top plates at all attic/wall interfaces to minimize air leakage. Install drywall then seal the seam from the attic side with caulk, foam, or drywall adhesive (but not other construction adhesives). OR; Before installing drywall, install caulk or other sealant or a foam gasket to the face of the top plate then install the.
Glue is not needed, but will reduce screw pops by making the assembly more 'solid'. I always use adhesive when I can (when there is no vapor barrier or insulation covering the wood). Some helpful pointers: Use drywall screws - 1 screw per 12 inches on the joist, if you have an edge, every 6 inches Stagger your vertical seams, so if you start with a full 8′ sheet on the top row, start with a 4″ sheet on the bottom row. Always begin and end on a stud. Use drywall screws (or nails, if you have something against your drill) and make sure they are long enough to penetrate at least 5/8″ into the stud The vertical edges of the sheet should attach to studs. Score the front side and cut away the paper backing. Smooth any rough edges and position the piece. Mark the studs and drive in screws to secure the drywall. Tip: To hang drywall, put your pieces horizontally and avoid placing seams at doorways or windows because they may crack Using your 4 putty knife, fill the entire length of the drywall seam from one end to the other. Make sure your final product is level with neatly feathered edges. When using drywall compound, the key is to work in thin, level coats. The objective is to fill the cracks and make them as level as possible with the wallboard on both sides of the. Hides Uneven Studs Another benefit of hanging drywall horizontally is that it allows it to flow over the framing. This makes it so that bowed studs are less problematic. If you were to hang it vertically with a seam put on a bowed out stud, the seam would be more noticeable. This is thanks to having a bump in the wall from the stud
. Update: Staggering drywall joints throughout the wall / ceiling doesn't provide any added structural support, the important point to keep in mind is to line up all of the joints with a wall stud or ceiling joist. Also, it is a good idea to avoid having drywall seams that line up with door and window. To plumb that exterior wall, I would have to shim out the top part of the studs by ~0.75″. This exterior wall is filled with studs and vent pipes (10 studs and 2 vent pipes over the 3′ span) so sistering is not an option. Above and below the window there is a drywall transition to the rest of the wall. How would you recommend I approach this This is not absolutely necessary and if you decide to do it, use a caulk gun to apply the adhesive along the furring strips just before lifting the drywall into place. Using adhesive will reduce the number of drywall screws needed to secure the sheets and prevent any possible sagging over time by 'flexing'. Oh yeah, the seams are ON a stud(s), so there should be no reason for movement there. So, my question is How do you repair/prevent cracking at drywall seams WITHOUT creating a huge lump on the surface? I already have built up 1/8 inch thick to ++ on these stupid seams Drywall Panels Cost = $191. Drywall Labor Costs. The national average labor costs for a drywall installer is $36 per hour. A standard output average (on a wall that already has studs) is to hang between 4 and 5 sheets of drywall per hour, or between 35 and 40 sheets in an 8-hour day
Because of this, you should avoid placing drywall seams on or near jack studs. In other words, a drywall seam should not be located within 12 inches of the edge of a window or door. If you need to locate a drywall seam above or below a window, it is best to do so near the middle of the window Avoid placing the butt joint on the defective stud or area - or correct the misalignment if possible. Tips on Installing Drywall #2: This could involve moving the stud, replacing the stud, or even using a power stud planer . This makes the taping/finishing SO much easier If there is any spring in the drywall at the point of the seam, it is very difficult to get a smooth finish. That is why it is important that the ends of the drywall sheets overlap the edge of a stud or joist. You cannot tape a drywall seam that is not recessed flat with the rest of the wall Drywall mud is the process of covering the seams and screw heads on the drywall. It provides a seamless look for walls. Drywall mud is actually called joint compound. You can buy it premixed in a bucket or you can mix it yourself. For simplicity sake, I prefer the premixed variety. Is mesh or paper tape better for drywall
Deciding the best way of hanging pictures on drywall means taking a lot of factors into account. We walk you through your options to getting that décor up You should never put a seam on top of a seam unless it is on a stud, but even then it should be avoided when possible. I don't understand why the glue caused the sheets to drift, honestly. Also, if the edges aren't fastened to a stud, there is really only a mater of time before your seams crack--even with good taping/mud i have done this before i will try to explain. cut out a square from stud to stud but expose the to studs 3/4 of an inch. you will then see the studs with 3/4 of an inch of stud with drywall, 3/4 bare wood. cut a piece of drywall to that dimension. this is of course looking left to right